Vosne Romanee

Previously Domaine Robert Arnoux, the estate was founded in 1858. Today, it is run by Charles Lachaux, representing the family's sixth generation. Despite, or perhaps because of, his youth, Charles is crystal-clear in his aspirations and objectives. The vineyard is virtually everything here, complemented in the cellar by restrained oak use and some whole cluster fermentation.

Charles makes no secret of being a disciple of Lalou Bize-Leroy, leaving the vines' shoots to grow longer than usual, in tune with their natural vigour. “We don’t want to be traditional; we don’t want to be modern.” The estate is 14.5 hectares, all planted to Pinot Noir, spread over six villages and 15 terroirs. These comprise four grands crus, five premiers crus, five villages and a regional level wine, the excellent ‘Pinot Fin’.

Les Chaumes is situated just below Malconsorts and La Tâche. It has a little more clay and iron in the soil than most Vosne 1ers and this tends to bring more thunder and mouth coating, structure than we might expect of a young Vosne. With age, as these tannins melt, the Vosne component of the wine comes to the fore, exploding with perfume and texture. It often needs a year or two to show it's absolute best. 40% whole bunch and 50% new oak. "A discreet application of wood frames the overtly spicy and floral aromas that display notes of plum, black cherry, violet, lavender and Asian-style tea. The medium weight flavors are lush to the point of opulence with a seductive texture, all wrapped in a delicious, refined and balanced finish. This should also drink well young if desired." 90-92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 61.